Installing a dash camera can be intimidating at first, especially if you haven’t done it before. Dealing with the power cable, connecting it to a power supply and securing it is not something which should be taken lightly, but with the proper knowledge and know-how anyone can do it. The following tutorial is mostly for a BlackVue Power Magic Pro but it does work with most of the Lukas, VicoVation and similar continuous power cables supplied with your dash camera.

First of all, if you don’t already know where your fuse panel is go ahead and read the manual or search a forum to find out. If your fuse panel is inside the cabin, most likely under the steering wheel column or just to the side, the following installation should be a really simple job for you. Unfortunately some vehicles do have an external fuse panel, usually under the hood, making the installation slightly more difficult but nothing special still.

As you will need to somehow connect the camera to the fuse panel via the power cable, if you can’t find a hole big enough to fit the cable take your car to the local mechanic and ask him to drill a hole in the firewall. It only has to be a small hole, just big enough to fit the necessary cables. Once that is done, you can simply slide the cables from inside and fish them out from the engine bay, bringing them closer to the fuse panel.

The first cable you install should be the ground cable, which is usually black and labeled as “GND”. Find the bolt closest to the fuse box, unscrew it just enough to be able to slide the prongs of the ground cable around the bolt and tighten it up. Note that the ground cable requires access to solid metal, so if there’s any kind of coating on the screw or underneath it, it may not ground properly. In that case you’ll either have to scratch the coating or find another bolt to attach the ground cable to.

The next cable on the list is the battery cable, which is most often yellow and labeled as “BATT(+)”. It’s important to mount the battery cable to a fuse which is getting constant power regardless of whether the car is on or off. Obviously one of the traits of a dash camera is the ability to record at all times, so this step is extremely important.

The third cable is the red one titled “ACC(+)”. Unlike the battery cable, the ACC cable needs to be mounted to a fuse which is directly associated with the position of the ignition, i.e. it turns on if the ignition is on and it turns off if the ignition is off.

Mounting the two above mentioned cables requires a bit of testing first so if you don’t have a circuit tester go ahead and buy or borrow one. They’re usually pretty cheap, you can get them for less than 10$ at some places. It looks like a screwdriver and the principle behind its operation is very simple. When touching a fuse it will light up if said fuse is getting power. When you find suitable fuses you’ll be mounting the battery cable to a fuse which is always getting power, and the ACC to a fuse which is getting power only when the ignition is on.

Let’s start with the battery cable first. Take the fuse with a constant power supply and pull it out. Wrap the end of the battery cable around one leg of the fuse and insert it back in once you’ve done it. Make sure it’s securely fitted. Give it a small pull if you have to just to be sure it won’t come out. This is the way 90% of people mount the cable but later we’ll show you a much better (in our opinion) way of doing it. Do the same with the ACC cable next. It’s okay if you did that one first, just make sure to do them both and don’t forget that one needs a fuse with a constant power supply and the other a fuse related to the ignition.

The other method we prefer is with the help of a double fuse tap. You can find them on our website, they’re really cheap. What you do is pull out the fuse from the fuse box, insert it in the double fuse tap slot (next to the provided fuse) and later mount the entire fuse tap cable into the fuse slot in the panel. You’ll obviously need a second fuse tap for the other wire as we’ve got both a battery and an ACC cable but the installation for both is the same.

The other end of the double fuse tap has a blue plastic. Insert the end of your power cable inside and crimp it on with the pliers. Pull on it lightly just to ensure it won’t detach and you should be all set on that end.

There are four different types of fuses. There’s a mini fuse block, an ATO fuse block (larger), a low-profile mini fuse tap and finally the newest MICRO2 fuse tap. The latter is mostly found in newer vehicles only. All of them are available for purchase on our website.

Now you can go ahead and insert the fuse taps into the fuse box. Make sure the fuses are fully inserted in the fuse tap itself, use pliers to get them in fully if you have to as the fuse tap does provide some resistance.

Once you do all that do a quick overview. The ground cable should be installed and tightly secured with the screw, the red ACC cable connected to a fuse getting power only when the ignition is on and the yellow battery cable to a fuse with constant power supply. Before closing the fuse box you might need to drill a few small holes in the side of the fuse box (the plastic bit) just so that it can shut correctly. Again, only drill holes just big enough to fit the cables.

When we have all that completed, we can connect the other end of the power cable to the Power Magic Pro. This device monitors your battery level and automatically shuts off the camera if it senses the battery is getting low, thus preventing a dead battery.

The back of the Magic Pro has a toggle switch for toggling on and off and a green light which should light up if you did the wiring job correctly. The toggle switch has two positions, I and O. If you want the camera to only turn on when the car is on, leave it at O. If you want the camera active 24/7, toggle the switch to I.

The left backside of the Power Magic Pro has a lot of small switches which basically represent a timer function. Consult the manual for individual settings on how to set the timer for 2, 6, 24 and more hours.

The optimal setup we run is with the 1 switch turned off and everything else on (pulling the switches down, towards the direction of ON). This means that the camera won’t have a timer and it will keep on recording until the device decides the battery has had enough (11.8 volts). At that point it will turn the camera off saving your battery.

If you have any other questions don’t hesitate to ask us by sending a mail or calling us directly.